Overview

Three and a half hours and two mountain passes from downtown Denver lies the town of Steamboat Springs.  Its distance from both Denver and the I-70 corridor makes it mores of a destination resort, and less of a college-kid-playing-hooky-on-a-weekday type of place.  Despite having a young scene and an active nightlife, Steamboat still holds on to its history as an old western ranching town, and you’ll probably see more cowboy hats than baseball caps, even on the slopes. 

The town has plenty going on, and is famous for its plentiful nearby hot springs (see “Don’t Miss” section below).  Steamboat is the resort where the term “champagne powder” was coined: light, fluffy snow that falls in heaps and provides effortless turns and a cushiony base for even the most foolhardy maneuvers.  It is also widely regarded as one of the best tree skiing resorts in the country.

Don’t Miss

On the Mountain: One of Steamboat’s gems is Morningside Park, accessible by the Storm Peak Express lift.  Located on the backside of the mountain, these runs tend to get the best snow and attract the fewest gapers.  From here you’ll find a network of shorter runs, mostly black diamond, and some great trees.  You can choose to do laps on the Morningside lift, which are quite short, or ski the trees down to the Sunshine Express for a longer ride.

Off the Mountain: Just outside of Steamboat lies the Strawberry Park Hot Springs (www.strawberryhotsprings.com), where steaming pools of 104-degree water invite sore bodies to relax and unwind.  Pools are open year round and 24 hours daily, although they are limited to adults after ten PM.  This may have something to do with the clothing-optional policy that is also in effect after ten PM.  A visit to the hot springs cost $10 per adult (less for teens and kids), and a shuttle service can take you there directly from the ski resort (call for details).

Where to Eat Lunch

$  If you’re done skiing or riding by midday and want to head into town for something to eat, Backcountry Provisions (635 Lincoln Ave, Old Town Square, 970-879-3617, www.backcountryprovisions.com) is the place to go for a big, delicious sandwich.  Their creative menu offers everything from a traditional turkey sandwich or Italian hoagie to ones with less common ingredients, like liverwurst, smoked salmon or ham and Brie.

$$  The Slopeside Grill (1855 Ski Time Square, 970-879-2916, www.slopesidegrill.com) has a huge patio where the sun always seems to be shining.  Take off your hat and gloves, unbuckle your boots, and let the sunshine warm your face while you sip on any one of their many beers and cocktails and munch on your choice of over 75 menu items.

Parking

Steamboat is a typical ski resort when it comes to parking: if you want to walk from your car to the base, it’ll cost you about $20 to park.  If you want to drive and park pretty close and take a short shuttle, it’ll be free, but these lots fill up quickly in the morning.  Your best bet is to find the nearest shuttle stop to wherever you are staying- Steamboat has one of the most accessible mountains when it comes to shuttles, which run often and throughout most of the town.

The Stats

Operating Dates 2009/2010: November 25 – April 11
Lift Hours:  8:30 AM – 3:30 PM
Vertical Rise:  3668 ft
Annual snowfall:  331 inches
Lift tickets: $95/day during the regular season.  Multi-day discounts given.

Where to Stay

Like most ski resorts, Steamboat has plenty of condominiums available for rent, all accessible by shuttle service that runs between them and the mountain.  Prices run the gamut from cheap and affordable for a small (and probably dated) condo off the mountain, to quite expensive for the ski in/ski out types.  Overall, though, Steamboat tends to be cheaper than the more upscale, touristy resorts such as Vail and Aspen.

$  Just off of Rabbit Ears pass is the Holiday Inn (3190 South Lincoln Ave, 970-879-2250, www.steamboathi.com), a short drive from the mountain’s base area.  Their rooms are clean, affordable, pet-friendly, and all include a fridge and microwave so you can store and make food.  The outdoor hot tub is top-notch and perfect after a long day of skiing or riding.  Rooms start at $119/night in the winter and include a basic continental breakfast.  If you’re hungry after you get cleaned up and don’t want to leave the building, the adjacent restaurant, Rex’s American Grill and Bar (970-870-0438) serves up great pizza, sandwiches, apps and entrees.  They also serve breakfast and lunch and offer a full bar.

$$ Although it may look a little rough from the outside, the Rabbit Ears Motel (201 Lincoln Ave, 1-800-828-7702, www.rabbitearsmotel.com) has been a staple for budget travelers in downtown Steamboat Springs since 1959.  In fact, it’s still owned by the same family who started the business.  Rates for a room for two people in the winter season range from $149 - $179 and include a free continental breakfast.  It’s not exactly walking distance from the mountain, but you won’t find a better location for the price in the heart of downtown Steamboat.